Pura Vida/Defining Gratitude


I have a side hustle teaching yoga at a studio with a view of a lake. The owner has been a friend and a mentor for a long time. Since the day we met, I have always felt like he really understood me. That’s not a feeling I get from many people. In my head I call him Vitamin V. Between Power Yoga, Bikram, Yin, Tai Chi, and Hop Ki Do, V teaches upwards of 35 classes per week. I swear I took yoga teacher training for one reason only. V needs some help.

So far I’ve got one regular class over there and I can sub in a pinch. V is like no boss I have ever had. We seem to have transcended money. We pass it back and forth from time to time with a casual faith that it will all shake out. We both get the importance, so we don’t have to talk about it. Which leaves us free to talk about other matters that float up above commerce. This money thing is cool and different and worth mentioning, but it isn’t the main reason that I am so grateful to be able to work for V; I have never felt so trusted by anyone. More than 35 classes a week and I have never seen V mail one in. I think this is why he has faith in me. I am not the stable figure that he is outside the studio. My life is not necessarily arranged in such a way that round the clock meditations on peace, and generating clam, are practical. The stakes in my life are high and I am an emotional person and I may wear it on my sleeve in the lobby but never in the studio. My default setting is to work very hard and I never mail it in either. My DNA doesn’t permit it. 

As I was preparing for today’s class I was thinking about how grateful I am that V lets me play the music I like, set the temperature where I like, do the poses I like, at the pace I like. If I want to tell stories or jokes at the beginning it’s totally cool. His background is Martial Arts and that influences his style. I played ice hockey in Pennsylvania and something similar is true of me. Not afraid to go hard. Sometimes it gets ugly. Teeth are lost. The truth is that at this point I have a lot of regular students. I also have a brain that tends to connect dots over time. I went a little deeper with this word ‘gratitude.’ Wondering what it really meant to me. I could quote the O.E.D. and be done with it. Or if I was crazy lazy, I could Google it. But I don’t define important words like that. In my life, all of the important words (i.e. fear, sadness, catharsis, potential, etc.) had their meanings cemented in moments. I recall learning the meaning of the word ‘gratitude’ nineteen years ago in Costa Rica. This is the story:

In 2001 my dog and I went on an extended surf trip that took us all the way down to a little town on la Costa Pacifica de C. R. called Esterillos Oeste. It would probably be a well-known surf town if it weren’t surrounded by surf towns that were better developed, and with breaks that were more consistent and hollow. The wave at Esterillos was a deep water, right point (with occasional inside lefts). There was some reef out there in the impact zone, but the peak was determined by the shifting of the sands on the ocean floor; and since the take-off was so far out, it was a fickle wave to line up. Locking into a big one was ‘vale la pena.’ Translated: Worth it. It wasn’t Pavones but there was a lot of glassy wall to have fun with between the drop and the beach. With the right swell direction, a surfer could link four distinct sections. In case this isn’t coming across: fucking bliss.

I rented a house in town and took a thorough break from driving the car through sweltering landscapes. This is the complete list of things I did during the three months I lived there: surf, eat, read books in a hammock, play chess, practice my espanol with the locals (there were some older ex pats there but I didn’t know them nearly as well as I knew the Ticos). After a couple of months I was starting to get dialed in on the wave. Like I said, it came out of deep water and was shifty. The Tico kids always seemed to know exactly what the ocean was about to do. Makes sense. They had been watching the break all their lives. I had just shown up. I was a relatively new surfer. So new that I was regularly trading in boards for smaller ones as I became a faster swimmer and able to handle steeper water. The day that I learned the meaning of ‘gratitude’ is a day that will always be remembered fondly by exactly four people as ‘Aquel Jueves.’ Translated: That Thursday. 

It had to have been mellow in the ocean for a week or so because it felt like the swell came out of nowhere. Flat calm at night. By sunrise there were stacks of glassy lumps all the way to the horizon and the energy was building. My jaw hit the sand. I dumped my coffee and ran back to the casita for my board. The plan was to snag a few and come back in for a big breakfast.

I think that superlatives are weak words and I won’t use one to describe Aquel Jueves. The plan to come in for breakfast turned into a plan to come in for lunch, and eventually a vague concern for parts of my skin that were turning purple (acclimated but still a gringo). Whether you surf or not, picture this cross section of events: perfect day in the tropics, warm water, in the last half year you’ve spent more time surfing than walking, you’re with friends but no one from the city knows about the swell so there is hardly anyone out, you’re body is as fit as it will ever be, there is no wind at all, the ocean is absolutely firing, sets of four between eight and twelve foot, your responsibilities are fuck all, you are exactly where you are supposed to be.

It frustrates me that so many languages don’t have a useful translation for the word ‘cool.’ I can’t get through the day without using it a few hundred times. My espanol is tight and whether or not I get to drop ‘cool’ as much as I’d like is a function of which Spanish speaking country I am in. In Costa Rica they have a fine equivalent for ‘cool.’ In fact, their word is probably even better. Their word is two words: pura vida. Translated: Pure life. But it doesn’t sound the way it would if you walked around the United States saying ‘pure life’ about everything. Down there it is just part of the music of the language. In order to have words like ‘cool’ and ‘pura vida’ the concept has to exist. And for the concept to exist, someone has to embody it. Meet Tigre (Tiger).

In 2001 Tigre looked just like your average Mayan Prince. I think he was eighteen. He was an enigma in that he ate well and took good care of his body. He had silky black hair that hung to his waist. Never one knot in it. He had the lean body of a swimmer. He had an attractive blond girlfriend from the Netherlands. She didn’t surf. Tigre ruled the water. When I first started surfing there he was mythological. Tigre worked in construction and wasn’t around most of the day. He would often just appear in the water at some opportune moment, taking every set wave, never looking like he had to put an ounce of effort into paddling. There are surfers that are working hard to get rides and there are surfers that are in total harmony with the movement of the water. They don’t work at all. Tigre found all the barrels, he could do re entry hits and 360s, I never saw him miss a section. I got to know him the longer I lived there. Tigre was from a tough place to be from. At that time he had just a slight advantage over his peers. He was willing to work hard; In the water and on the land. He thought about things. He had a method. He watched what he ate and tempered his alcohol consumption. It was more typical of the Ticos in that town to ingest anything and everything that they could get their hands on. Surviving can be so hard. I can see why surviving well is beyond comprehension for some. I respect him so much for his conscious effort. In the early afternoon on Aquel Jueves, Tigre appeared in the line up, alongside myself, Chetty, and Alfonso.

We traded waves. The ocean was serving up as much as we could stand and then some. It was overwhelming. At some point I started letting some sets just go by. My arms were rubber but they were still working. My belly was raw from laying on the board in the salt water all day. The rash inside my thighs from the side rails burned. I’m not bellyaching. All of this stuff was minor and would heal in a few days. A session like that was hard to come by. I rallied and moved in on the next set. I think I took the second wave almost all the way in and Tigre caught the one behind me; an absolute tower that I saw him take off on the first time I came up to the lip. I remember racing through the first section and hearing the sound of the white water from Tigre’s wave as it connected in the pit. The swell that had built to being steadily overhead was acquiring even more juice. 

I didn’t consider going in after that ride, even though I was pretty spent. There was a serious calm after that set and there was a lot of suspense, at least in my head, about what was going to happen next. Alfonso was still outside, Chetty was stroking out behind me. Tigre wasn’t in view at first. This was not a problem. The rip was pretty strong and the paddle back out was over with pretty fast, even though it was long. The next set still hadn’t arrived. Chetty and I pulled up alongside Alfonso. I sat up on my 6’3” Jean Noel, little Brazilian board, and looked for Tigre. Instead of riding the current back out to the line up, he was laying on his board, with his back arced upward, wet hair hanging behind his face, chocolate eyes locked in on surface of the water, lazily stroking his way into the impact zone. 

Tigre didn’t have as much time to spend in the water as some of the unemployed kids that also had boards. It made no difference. It was probably to his advantage that he was motivated and that his time was structured. It honed his focus. His investment in the moment was total. The wave that he had just surfed had to be as fine as any that the little bay had ever coughed up. A fish jumped. A few clouds hung in the sky but it was so calm it seemed like they may never move at all. Tigre paddled further in. A pair of pelicans tracked north, just a few feet above the first wave in the next set. It was still pretty far out and the shadow in the pit was getting darker and wider in a hurry. Tigre was in no hurry at all, already well past the point of no return. The wave kept standing up, the birds peeled away, and the sea level dropped around Tigre as the wave swallowed up the energy of whatever was in its way. The three of us were safely off the shoulder, being lifted up, but easily going to get over the lip. We just sat and watched on our boards. The peak wasn’t that far from us. Where Tigre was, crazy deep, it was more like a heavy ledge. At the moment that it started to throw, Tigre boosted up to a seat, tipped his head back, the end of his hair was in the water. He was relaxed. His eyes were closed. His arms were energized, like a warriors, open like a V and pointing at the sky. He looked just like that when the lip hit him in the chest. Some waves break, others detonate. This was the latter.

What just happened? Honestly, I’m still in the process of working it out. Tigre was a deep and serious person. Surfing that break was part of his soul. And even for a kid who grew up on that very same beach, Aquel Jueves was a sweet spot in history. I’ve had other experiences like this one, where nature comes out of nowhere to make you feel so blessed, and so fucking sure that you are on your path, that you become injected with a level of faith and confidence and focus that allows your expectations of your own abilities to start blossoming in every direction. I am smart enough to cherish it. I am smart enough to know that I can’t throw my body in front of time and make it stop. I’ve never done anything like Tigre did though.

If you surf you are likely catching on to how truly special this was. If you don’t, keep hanging in there. For surfers, or really anyone whose soul’s condition is bound to their relationship with forces of nature that adhere to unpredictable rhythms, there are moments that are as good as it gets. Moments that are the reason that you ever get up and do anything. Because you know, if you play your hand right, you can pretty much kiss [God] and come back to tell the tale; at least one more time. At some point there won’t be another time. That is true for us all. And I can see the wisdom in engineering an exit in the midst of a moment of complete harmony with every force in the universe (it is accurate that every object of mass in the universe has a quantifiable attraction to every other object of mass in the universe, and therefore affects the dynamics of every wave in the ocean). The ocean gave us such a precious gift that day, in exchange, Tigre offered up himself. The gesture was massive. 

It’s nice to think that nature cares about gestures. I’m not sure. I want to believe it does. So much that I will always make them. Even without proof. If this world were a merciful place, Tigre would have drowned that afternoon.

He disappeared under a wall of whitewater that was churning its way in toward the beach. The pile lost some of its power when it got close to the inner reef section. Seemed like along time but it was probably only fifteen seconds before his boards was tombstoning at the surface. He crawled up the leash and found his way back from the deep a few seconds later. He had to pick his way through the rocks a bit but he was more or less just flushed in after that. The three of us took off on the next set that came through. Just picking up the shoulders to get into the beach. No longer going for it. That was enough. The four us sat on the beach without talking and watched set after set of perfect waves peel across the bay with nobody on them. I can’t believe I am writing this: it was better than surfing.

Aquel Jueves is so steeped in irony in my mind. Not surfing was better than surfing. The need to be in the water felt so urgent all day, and then the feeling evaporated. The only thing that mattered was watching, listening to, and smelling the waves. We worked so hard, and then we just stopped and didn’t work at all. We didn’t talk either. There was nothing to say in any language. I knew something important had just happened, but I couldn’t reason it out at the time and it would have been wrong of me to try. I did what I was supposed to do. I just sat there with my Tico friends, and let the light fade. 

It’s hard to be from Esterillos Oeste. I looked at a guy like Tigre and thought he had at all. Reality is that every morning Tigre had to talk his mom out of selling his board because the family was hungry. I was well fed. My needs were all met and I was loved. I was supposedly well educated by the best instructors available. And yet the first person I ever saw arrive in a moment so perfect that they were willing to surrender completely and let the earth have them back, was a poor Tico kid, who clung to his dreams, had an incredible sense of the movement of water, and knew how to handle a surf board. It’s not nearly enough to say that Tigre letting that wave hit him was cool. That shit was pura vida (and in this instance substituting ‘pure life’ does work).

The difference between thanks and gratitude is large. There is quite a bit that I am thankful for and appreciate but aren’t signifiant enough earn a lot of deep thought from me. Gratitude is something else. When I feel it now, I feel it like Tigre felt it that today. I want to surrender myself entirely to what I am truly grateful for.

Borders are a bitch. Tigre is still around but the weight of his reality bore down on him and eventually he stopped resisting. He can still handle a board because his sense of water is so good. The hair is gone. He is no longer fit. Between odd jobs he smokes a lot of piedra (rather not translate that). It’s hard to know how to help. Perhaps help by keeping the story of him at his best alive. Not many of us witnessed it. Last I heard Chetty is still around. Alfonso vanished a while ago.

A lot of people showed up for class and we went for broke today. Everyone worked hard. Me too. With all of this on my mind I could only give 100% of myself. And I am so fortunate to have a place where I can do that. Teaching at V’s studio is not a job at all. It’s an opportunity to express myself, a chance to make an offering, and a chance to receive one. The entire experience is like Aquel Jueves. It could be luck. It could be that I deserve it. I don’t care either way. It makes no difference.

Share:

Om (Published in 2014 in The Pitkin Review Journal)

 
“I’m just scared that she’s gonna move out there and hook up with one of those cults is all.”
“Stop it, Mom. I’m not joining any cults. I’m just going to college.”
“She seems like a smart girl, Irene. I don’t think you have anything to worry about,” Lud hardly knows these ladies, but he can tell by the way Constance pays close attention to everything going on around her that she’s sharp. “Anyway, Irene, what cults are you even talking about? I’ve been to the west coast plenty of times. It’s great.”
“I hear they got all sorts of cults out there that worship the devil and dismember little babies.”
“God. I’m not going to dismember any babies, Mom!”
Lud’s getting a kick out of the endearing argument between the daughter who is determined to live and the single mom who has probably never left southern Florida trying desperately to protect her. 
“You know,” says Lud to Irene, “most of the cults aren’t satanic. Some of them are quite friendly.”
“Quit pulling my leg, Lud. A cult is a cult is a cult.” Irene sits back in her squeaky aluminum lawn chair; done eating. She had let her hair down after work and its chestnut color clashed with the neon green t-shirt the gift shop had her wear. 
Lud stabs the last piece of ahi on his plate with the tip of a sharp knife and then uses his whitened teeth to pick it clean off. His curly hair, in need of a cut, bounces off of his ruddy cheeks while he chews. As he lifts his wine glass to wash down the fish the rim attracts a yellow jacket who gets ornery when pinched between his face and the glass and lashes out with its back end and stings him on the mouth. Lud drops the glass which shatters on the hard packed earth below. There is French burgundy on his white golfing shirt, and his hands are clamped around his nostril. The confused dinner party assumes that he is crying and writhing in pain, quite possibly embarrassed. But Lud is actually just drunk and off balance. When he releases his grip on his nose the crowd sees that he is laughing. Irene is the first to come to his aid. She keeps her arm around his shoulder while he calms down, and young Constance darts off to the motor home’s bathroom to look for a first aid kit. 
She returns with a flashlight and the kit. Lud’s head is leaned back and Constance shines the light right up his nose and notes all sorts of details that she couldn’t see from across the  dining table; like the fact that he missed a crescent-shaped band of stubble while shaving the underside of his chin, there is a brick of snot clogging up the left nasal passage, and that the bee actually got him on the upper lip, which is starting to redden and swell. Irene is wielding a pair of sharp tweezers that she found in the first aid kit. Lud holds perfectly still while Irene, who has pulled about a million fishhooks out of fishermen and fish over the years, deftly removes the stinger and then swabs the region with a Bacardi soaked cotton swab. Lud stretches his neck and then escapes to the weatherproof locker that he keeps chained to the axle of his motor home and produces another bottle of the burgundy from within it.
“I think you need ice on that, Lud, not more wine.”
“Always buy three,” he says.
“Are you sure that you are not allergic to bee stings?” 
“Oh, I am sure,” says Lud, snorting and fumbling with the corkscrew, “I’ve been stung hard before.” There’s a little pop sound when the cork bursts free and the wine starts oxygenating. Lud’s past bothering with the decanter and is sloshing a full pour into a fresh piece of stemware. When he’s satisfied he’s got enough he passes the bottle counterclockwise around the table. “Man, it must be like fifteen years since my last bee sting, whole fucking-excuse me Constance-whole swa-”
“She’s seventeen and grew up around fishermen, I think she’s heard it, Lud.”
“Still, I’m sorry.”
“You need some ice.”
“Ahhh.” Ignoring the protest, Irene gets up and wraps some cubes in a cloth napkin and hands Lud the package. He reluctantly puts the icy compress on the minor wound.
“What were you saying, my friend?” asks the retired professor, Mario. “Something about a swarm?” 
“Fuck-sorry-yeah. I was attacked by a swarm of bees, when I was on this kind of bizarre vacation out in the northwest. There’s a bit of a story to it if you guys want to hear it.” Everyone was stuffed with food and and lazy and glad to be entertained. “Alright. Although I need to warn you that this story has a bit of a cult angle to it.” Lud looks at Constance for permission. “I don’t want to freak your mom out.” 
Constance rolls her eyes and flashes Lud that very specific expression that only teenagers can make which says precisely Please do not worry about my embarrassing and obviously ridiculously overprotective mother.
“So yeah, it must have been about fifteen years ago,” Lud adjusts the way he is holding the ice so his mouth is unobstructed and his voice is clear. “There was a woman that I used to pal around with, named Shelly.” Irene looks jealous, she’d probably like to do a little palling around with Lud if the opportunity pops up. “I met her on a flight out to Ambergris Cay in Belize. She saw me carrying my tennis racquets onboard and suggested that we get together for a game in the next few days. She gave me the name of her hotel and we met up a few times and practiced our groundstrokes for an hour and then usually drank a cocktail. Before you know it we were having dinner together. She was a nudist by the way.” 
“So where was she from?” Irene had to seize upon the nudist bit to keep driving her point home about the cults. “California?” 
“Actually she lived in Waterford, Connecticut.” 
“Hmm. Touché.”
“Have you been up to Connecticut, Irene?” asks Mario. “Everyone goes around naked in Connecticut.”
“Somehow I doubt that.”
“Ha. One thing led to another...you know how it is. We kept in touch and traveled together a few times before things eventually fizzled. I never went to an actual nudist retreat with her. She would try to get me to but I just wasn’t into it. I guess you could say that I just didn’t have the balls for it. She was pretty new-agey. Cultish, you might say. And I was petrified of getting stuck, naked, in the midst of a whole throng of new-agey folks like her without clothes on. Plus I figured some of them were bound to be unsightly and...you get the picture. 
“We compromised and went to a week long meditation retreat in the San Juan Islands. One where people kept their clothes on.” 
“Where are those?” asks Constance. 
“Northwest. Near Canada. Hell and gone from here. Place called Orcas Island. Surrounded by water.”
“Which is the definition of an island,” says Mario.
“Thank you for that, Mario.”
“You’re welcome for that, Lud.”
“It was a nice place. There were lots of birds and deer. You could see snowcapped mountains in the distance. Real quiet and serene. We were staying in a rustic little cabin, one of twelve or so on a piece of land known as Camp Maranatha. Hippie dippy to the core. There was a big garden in very so-so shape and a commons building where everyone ate and gathered for events. Part of the program involved pitching in with the running of the place. So each day we would sign up for kitchen chores or some sort of yard work. Nothing too tough. You couldn’t drink or smoke on the grounds. Which can be nice once in a while.
“The specific retreat we were attending was hosted by a couple of.....let’s say, modern psychiatrists, one of them may have been a social worker actually. They were married and split their time up between living in Washington and living in Hawaii. They made this incredibly violating sort of eye contact when they spoke to you. But they let you violate them right back. When we spoke it felt like all of our most guarded secrets were suddenly in plain view, swirling about in the air between us. They were very patient and thoughtful-empathetic. Their names were Levi and Monica Stein. I liked them. I believe also that they liked me. But to be honest I didn’t get into the program as enthusiastically as most of the rest of the group.
“The attendees were mostly middle aged or older. All of them were white folks, except for one tall black teenager named Trystin, who came with his very short caucasian grandparents. There were some couples. But it was mostly a mix of single men and women. Divorcees, widows, folks who all seemed to have something to get over. At the time Shelly and I felt a little too young, or just not exactly damaged enough to be there.”
“I don’t like where this is going.”
“Mom, drink your wine and let Lud tell the story.”
“By the end of the story, the babies will be chopped up and boiling in a pot on the mountaintop. Right, Lud?” Mario roars with laughter at his own joke.
“You guys are nuts,” says Lud, “there weren’t any babies there at all. 
“Life during the camp was very routine. This bell would chime around seven in the morning. Half an hour later you would notice all of the people walking from their cabins and campsites toward the commons building. Conversation during meals was always hushed. These people took eating very seriously. They actively absorbed their food. It was a little creepy.  After the morning meal the crowd could be seen walking toward and from the bath houses. Some showering, others taking a dump. Things they also took very seriously and did with intention. Intention was a popular word there as I recall. By nine, the group would be seated in a circular formation in the grassy field and the Steins would lead the morning program. The program didn’t consist of too much. It was a little weird but nice. We would mostly just be together. Sometimes there would be breathing meditations. Sometimes we would do these exercises called conscious walking, where we would focus intently on each and every nuance of our very slow and drawn out strides. Monica liked us to focus on every single folding blade of grass as we took our steps. It made me feel guilty, like I was smashing the earth just by walking around. I remember it being tough to keep my mind still when we were doing all that slow stuff.
“Lunch was at noon, and there was a rule that no one spoke at lunch. The only sounds came from the spooning out of soup into bowls, juice and water collecting in cups, the gentle clinks of knives and forks on plates, chewing, an occasional cough or snort, a bowl being rinsed, or someone’s footsteps as they walked up for another helping, or to deposit the contents of their tray into the bus bins. It was always hard to figure out when it was acceptable to begin talking again after lunch. I always had a sense that I was ruining something for someone if I spoke.” 
Lud looks around the table. Mario is twirling his cigar back and forth between his thumb and index finger, grinning below his mustache like he is waiting for a punch line. There is still a sharp pain from the bee sting, but it sobered Lud up some.
“Some free time, or time to do work in the garden followed lunch. Sometimes the Steins could be heard having private conversations with different participants in the program. These conversations assured the rest of us that it was alright to begin speaking again. The Steins shared with us one morning the fact that they had once taken it upon themselves to not speak for an entire year. They did it together. As I recall they may have written a book about it. I often found myself wondering how much sex they had that year.” 
“I bet they got a look going, you know?” says Mario. “The sex look. I bet they did it all the time. I know they weren’t talking but could they holler or growl, maybe whimper a little bit?”
“I think you need to read their book, Mario.”
Everyone laughs.
“There was always an optional-everything was always optional-outing in the afternoon. A walking meditation around a lake, or to a beach. Dinner was a little more lively than the other meals. And before bed the group would meet in the big cozy hall adjacent to the eating area for another group therapy work out or some sort of seminar on seeing into another person’s soul, or developing real connections. I don’t mean to sound like I am making fun. I got something positive out of all of this, but I burned out on the practice after a few days. 
“Shelly burned out quicker than me. She liked the grounds and the food and the quiet slow pace, but she wasn’t interested in attending many of the group events, which surprised me because the whole trip was her idea and I thought she was going to be the gung-ho participator out of the two of us, but she wasn’t. She helped out in the kitchen an awful lot. Seeming real relaxed and happy. In the afternoons we would sneak off to our cabin to get naked while the group was focussing on something else. 
“I continued being a good sport about the group stuff. I did my best to attend the morning and evening sessions regularly while Shelly skipped everything but the meals. I was trying to be open the way they were encouraging us to be. I wanted to give it all a real shot. I was there, might as well. But by the end of the week I started to feel like I had learned enough from the program, and was benefitting more from being by myself. While Shelly was putting time in in the kitchen, I started taking on some bigger projects in the garden. Plenty of folks were lackadaisically pulling weeds, or harvesting berries for fifteen minutes here or there. But no one seemed to have a handle on the composting area. The comings and goings of so much volunteer labor, with no clear-coordinated effort had resulted in major disorder. 
“I got into working hard for a few mornings. The sun was shining brightly in the northwest that summer. I acquired a very healthy suntan. I rebuilt the composting bins with fresh hardware that I found in an old barn near the garden. I turned over old mounds of decaying material and readied it to be spread onto the garden beds to provide nutrition to the soil. I sorted through hectic piles of straw and weeds and wood, selecting out items to be added to my new compost piles, and items to be discarded. So far my project hadn’t directly affected any of the garden beds. But the greater level of organization made the gardens appear much more healthy and productive. I was receiving many compliments from the group. Compliments probably isn’t the right word. Deeply heartfelt appreciation is what I was receiving from this group. Many took my hands and looked me in the eye as they said stuff like thank you deeply for caring for our garden. They talked real slow, same as the way they walked, enunciating every last sound, like they were milking their words for phonetic potential. None of them would even be there the following week.” 
“How is this not a cult?”
“Maybe they were but I swear they were harmless and sweet.”
“That’s how they lure people in.”
“Mom, would you stop it.”
“There was just one area beyond the barn I still wanted to tidy up. And just one morning left of the program. I felt a bit guilty about deciding not to participate in the final morning meditation, but I was more driven to finish what I had begun in the garden. After eating a big vegetarian-all the food was vegetarian-breakfast, and then taking a big vegetarian dump-I was feeling very regular at this stage of the retreat-I stopped by the kitchen to give Shelly a very inappropriate French kiss. I pinched her ass. I told her she looked sexy in her apron and then went outdoors to put the finishing touches on my suntan and garden project simultaneously. I removed my shirt, and draped it over the deer fencing. My muscles felt good. I collected my trusty pitchfork and shovel and surveyed the scene. The group was chanting in unison in the adjacent meadow. They were working on their oms, or oming, I am not sure how to put it.” 
Lud demonstrates the sound of an ohm for everyone at the table. 
“Ooooommmmm....”
Mario belts out his own Om, mocking Lud and getting a laugh out of Irene.
“I fell into a trance. The sound of their voices as one vibration took hold of me. I felt like I was with them, even though I was working on my own. I offered a steady Om myself as I sized up my project. There was some cardboard, and plywood on the ground. There were a few stacks of rotten boxes that used to be homes for honey bees. The bees had vanished without the presence of a consistent beekeeper. I broke down the old hives and added the useless materials to my garbage pile. I hoped someone would take the pile away soon. I knew it could as easily sit there forever after I left. The thought made me sad. I added the cardboard to my compost pile. It would break down in time. The group in the meadow was really connecting on this final morning session. Their legs were crossed, their backs were straight, their eyes were closed, their hearts were wide open and the Om sounded like a thread connecting every bug to every person to every bird to every fish to every grain of sand on the island. I wondered if a certain piece of plywood on the ground before me had any usefulness. I flipped it over. That is when the swarm of long lost honey bees attacked me.
“Hundreds of ‘em came at me from their secret lair underneath the board. I must have been under the influence of a meditative contact high, because I don’t recall perceiving them as a swarm. I saw each one of them as an individual bee. They each had their own color scheme, stripe pattern, flight pattern and desperate intention.  Most of them obviously flew off. But a large contingent also came right for me. Almost all of the stinging was around my waist and on my wrists, but a few got me up on the neck. The sensation of pain was very slow to register. When it finally hit me I remember feeling each stinger on its own rather than an experience of broad pain or fear. When the spell that I was under finally broke, my actions became erratic. I was under siege and needed to behave accordingly if I was to save myself. I flailed about wildly. My arms and legs moving in sudden jerks and fits, trying to brush them away. I was shaking my head, and running my fingers through my hair. My mouth opened so that I could scream FUUUUUUUUUUCK!!! but no sound came out. Despite my predicament, I was making a priority out of not disturbing the group who was still engaged in their ritual just yards away. A lunatic shouting obscenities from the garden was definitely not a feature of the morning routine. It is possible that the entire metaphysical universe could have been dislodged from its axis had I caused the scene that I probably deserved to cause. Eventually I had the sense to run full tilt toward the kitchen where I found Shelly with Rebecca, the program’s head chef, unloading the commercial dishwasher and looking through recipe books. They got me into a chair and looked over my body. My eyes were bulging out. I could only utter a single word. Bees.
“Rebecca, the cook, was also a nurse and started fixing me up. Shelly stroked my head and talked softly to me to calm my nerves. I was shocked and panicking but I could breathe just fine. The process of removing the stingers and coating the penetrations with a comfrey salve took nearly an hour. I can’t remember the final tally, but I am sure it was up in the forties or fifties. At the time I was not sure if I was allergic to bee stings or no, those may have been my first. Rebecca assured me that if I was allergic my throat would have been closed already and that I would likely be fine. Her t-shirt had an image of hands on the front, and the words below the hands said I am a Krueger Krazy. I asked what it meant and she told me that she was schooled in a discipline of energy healing not unlike Reiki and that she would put her hands on me if I like. Why not? At the time I was feeling pretty high strung and anxious about the incident. The moment she laid her palms on my shoulders I felt mellow, and warm. The adrenaline faded away. I grew sleepy. Shelly walked me back to the cabin and tucked me in for an afternoon nap, though she did not stay with me for long. When I woke up it was late afternoon and I felt more at peace with who I was than at any other moment in my life, before or after really. I stayed in bed just enjoying the simple process of being for a little while, it was like I finally got the hang of it. There was even a point where I wondered if the meditators sicced the bees on me intentionally, for the sake of my own spiritual growth. Could they do that? Would they do that? They seemed so nice.”
“That’s exactly the type of things the cults do, Lud. They make thunderstorms and snowstorms, they send swarms of bees to attack people-they want chaos. They’re sick.”
“Mom, stop it. No one sent the bees to attack him. They were just living under the wood. Aren’t you listening?”
“Oh, I am listening alright. If you ask me Lud’s lucky to be alive and sitting here in Florida where it’s safe. Telling us his story. What happened next, Lud? They sic the deer on you?”
“Pretty soon I started feeling desire again. I had this burning desire to see the Steins. I didn’t have anything to report to them specifically. I had no interest in telling the tale of what happened in the garden. I was simply wondering if I might look different to them, somehow ascended  into another tier of consciousness.”
“Christ,” says Irene as she reaches for a cigarette from the pack of Parliaments on the table, “they brainwashed you.”
“I wasn’t brainwashed, Irene. I felt great. I slid into my favorite jeans and a clean cotton shirt and took a walk down to the commons building. On the way I exchanged small talk with some of the other participants in the program. The conversations weren’t about anything, but the bliss of being and of being with other people was still with me. The Steins were seeing people individually on this final informal afternoon and I chose not to interrupt any of their chats. I found Shelly and Rebecca in the kitchen and they smiled when they saw me but didn’t ask how I was. They could tell. I poured a cup of tea and sat outside beneath a madrona tree. A blue heron flew overhead. Some robins were chit-chatting and feasting on ripe elderberries. No one knew about the bee stings. I was proud that I had endured the trial without attracting attention or sympathy. Everyone there had problems. Most of those problems much bigger than mine.
“I was disappointed that Shelly decided not to attend the final evening’s group session. She was tired from cooking all day and wanted to have some alone time spent reading in the cabin. I understood. Personally I needed to attend. I needed a punctuation mark placed at the end of my experience at Camp Maranatha. I spent a long moment cuddling with Shelly before making my way to the meeting. We smoked a joint in the cabin. I was high when I left and  walked in to the meeting late.  
“You know that feeling, when you step into a room and all the conversation suddenly dies and you are sure that everyone was just talking about you? This was like that. But only for a split second. The quiet, awkward moment during which I felt paranoid that I had interrupted something was quickly filled with shouts of welcome, and Lud, we are so glad that you made it. I was led to a choice spot in the middle of the floor. I sat in between Trystin’s grandparents. I felt like one of God’s little children. 
“There was a very intimate question and answer session taking place. The group had accepted the Steins willingly as their spiritual guides for the week. Some of the group had met them before, but most did not know them and were keen to learn some personal information about the couple. They wanted details about the path that had led them to their attainment of peace. As I said before, the Steins were very open people. They were forthcoming about their own problems, and they were comfortable speaking lovingly about each other in front of the audience. We were all very surprised to hear that Levi worked as an industrial psychologist and was often contracted by large companies to assist  their employees in getting over traumatic workplace incidents. He was not able to divulge specific details about cases but you got the feeling that he had helped people get through some real life horror. He told us he often wore a suit and tie to work. That set off murmurs of disbelief amongst the crowd who had come to expect that this man was always dressed in purple garments imported from Guatemala and sported a bead necklace beneath his bushy beard. Monica came clean about her day job as well. She worked for the King County Prison System as a social worker. Her function was primarily to help juvenile convicts prepare themselves for life after confinement. I remember thinking that was very sweet of her, but doubting that a teenager would be ready to benefit from what she had to offer. I certainly would not have been.
“As nine o’clock drew closer I noticed within myself, and within the group because we were all one and experiencing the same exact thing, a sadness that the program was going to end.  Surely a thanks a lot, see y’all next year, would have been terribly inappropriate. The Steins had one more thing hidden in heir billowy sleeves. They invited us to enter their Soul Kitchen. We wondered aloud. Levi clarified with a bit of a menacing sarcastic comment, we are going to cook your souls, he said.
“Tranquil music was played on the sound system while the Steins instructed us all to line up in two rows facing one another, and everyone all jumped up and obeyed. By that point of the program all the Steins had to do was say shit to one of the program’s participants and they would respond by saying where and how much? Not like they were drill sergeants or anything. The group just had so much faith in them. The distance between the rows, once they were arranged, was just large enough to squeeze a body through. When we were all in place the dreamy music was turned up loud. A single woman named Sue who had driven up from Ogden, Utah was selected to go first. The Steins told her to do nothing at all. They wanted her to simply close her eyes and let go. That’s when the rest of us took over. The loving hands at the beginning of the lines guided her body slowly though the narrow space between the files. Everyone touched her, and as they did, they leaned forward to whisper kind sentiments into her ear. I was in the middle of one of the rows. I couldn’t hear all that was being said to her, but what I could hear was really intimate and nice. When her limp body arrived in front of me I told her that she was beautiful and passed her gently along. I don’t even know what made me say it but I really believed it. When she reached the end of the line she smiled and looked truly warmed, not so much her body, but her whole being. Her aura was shining bright.”
Irene makes a gun with her fingers, points it at her head, and pulls the trigger.
“After that it was time to cook another soul. As the participants proceeded through the line, I picked up more and more of the comments that were being whispered. The devoted members of the retreat had gotten to know one another awfully well. I had some regret that I did not spend more time with them while I had the chance. The kitchen rolled on like an unstoppable machine. It was my turn. I got stage fright and couldn’t recall what I was supposed to do. Levi noticed and reminded me to close my eyes and let go. So I did. It was like being caught in a current. I was able to move forward without effort. By simply being I was being taken care of. People were touching my body everywhere. And not just with their hands. People were leaning in to make as much contact with me as they could. Whole legs and arms were wrapped around my waist and neck. It was a colossal groping, like hundreds of hands massaging me at one time. And the things that people were saying, I had no idea that anyone had been paying attention to me at all. But they were. They told me that Nantucket was a wonderful place because I lived there. They told me how much they adore Shelly and all the work she has done in the kitchen. I was told what a hard worker I was. I was told what a great couple Shelly and I made. I was told that I would make a wonderful father. Someone, a man, said Lud, I love you, I don’t know who that was. At the end of the line I understood the name of the exercise. There was Levi again saying, are you cooked? I couldn’t speak but he knew the answer.
“I don’t exactly remember leaving the room that night. I just remember my heart babumping like a shoe in a dryer. I was excited and couldn’t wait to tell Shelly what happened. What the hell did happen? My attempt to describe it to her fell flat, but it didn’t matter. She could see that I had been profoundly moved. She was glad for me. She helped me out of my clothes and we made love. 
“I wish I could say that the elated feeling lingered longer than it did. As soon as we boarded the ferry boat to the mainland and watched the island retreat into the distance there was a sense of leaving something behind. We were on our way back to the real world. Going back felt wrong. But there wasn’t anything else to do. Life always goes on. I resolved that in the future I would make a greater effort to step back, and give it the unbiased open attention and notice it deserves.”
“Anyway,” says Lud, “that’s how I know that I am not allergic to bee stings.”
“Is that it?” asks Mario, looking less than satisfied.
“That was a nice story, Lud,” says Constance. “Thanks for sharing it.”
“I am disappointed in the ending,” says Mario. “No sacrifices? Not even an animal?”
“I still thought it was creepy,” says Irene.
“Whatever happened to Shelly?” asks Constance. “Sounds like you were good together.”
“Honestly,” Lud takes a drink of wine and stares vacantly at the ground, “I don’t know.”

Share:

‘[Rome] if you want to*’


‘[Rome] if you want to*’


Topics discussed: Immersive Travel, Yoga, Mobile Phone Surrender, A Spat with God, House of Leaves, High-Stakes Parenting, Italian Fashion, Graffiti in San Lorenzo, Dreams of the Opera





There are certain people who travel easily with me; most people don’t. As soon as I get out of the United States I avoid other Americans. I’ve got nothing against anyone, I just get to hang out with Americans all the time at home. If I am in Italy, I want to be with Italians. The opportunity to learn some of the language, and maybe make some local friends, are really my only priorities. Of course a lot of this gets accomplished in dive bars. I always find out where the locals are drinking and install myself amongst them. Danger schmanger. If the first thing you do is make friends with the scariest people in town, there’s nothing left to worry about. This obscure traveling tip is not available in any guidebook. Lately, yoga has been handy for social ice-breaking as well.

In Sorrento I lucked into a studio housed in an underground room made of stone. I’m not sure how old the space/cave is. Wouldn’t shock me if it has been around for 2000 years. Everything else dates back that long. All the classes were in Italian [awesome trick for picking up vocabulary if you practice]. It was close to Thanksgiving and Sorrento was pretty empty. I can’t guarantee that the experience that I had there would be easy to duplicate. I was the only American in that class, and the instructor was under the impression that I was from Spain [we communicated in Spanish in the lobby]. I’ve been into yoga now for longer than I sometimes care to admit. This was a standout yoga experience; taught in a foreign tongue, in a dark catacomb. The instructor helped me get over the language barrier and the dim conditions by providing a visceral experience that was completely new. She took hold of my hips and limbs and guided me in and out of the poses with a casual grace that would be hard to pull off in the United States. I won’t forget it.

When you grown up in the land of industry and commerce it’s hard to believe that a developed stretch of land has any business being as beautiful as the Amalfi Coast. There’s something much deeper at work in the purity of the appearance of the landscape. I don’t know anything about what life in Italy is really like. But I did have a very distinct feeling many places we went: no one was trying to sell me anything. The cliff trail out on the Amalfi Coast, sentieri diegla Dei, The Path of the Gods, is probably dense with hikers in the summer. In the November mist, my son and I had it to ourselves. It’s a stunning seaside trail that connects several towns that are perched on the shelf above the sea, literally daring the earth to break out from under them and deposit them in the Mediterranean. We got off the bus in Bomerano and set out for Nocelle. All afternoon was about watching lazy gray clouds obscure the horizon, as angled vistas of steep clusters of homes and terraced gardens floated like plush green islands in the salty mist. No one was in Nocelle. Literally no one. It must be a seasonal place. Walking the deserted streets, we acquired a dog. The dog led us to the twisting road down to Positano and we started the long descent. Eventually we thumbed our way into a red Mini Cooper driven by a resident of sleepy Nocelle. His name was Sal, he has never been out of Italy, but he did speak Spanish and we got to know each other a little as he banked the curves. After a warm goodbye at the bus stop by the side of the road, we stood with a herd of goats and waited for our next ride.





I introduced my son to wine on the trip. Whether or not this was a responsible decision is debatable. Time will eventually answer this and all other questions I suppose. He is fifteen and he is in a big public high school and he is cool. Alcohol is going to confront him sooner rather than later. My take is that I want him to be prepared. My first few turns with the bottle weren’t pretty. I’ve fertilized hedges and elevators with vomit; made a fool of myself a whole bunch of times. And I got off easy. We started with a glass of red, then two. Of course Italians don’t eat like Americans. It’s a long experience, lots of courses. And wine by the bottle, not the fucking glass. I don’t know what else to say. By the end of the time we spent in Rome the kid could pick up his glass by the stem after the waiter or waitress uncorked a bottle and made a short pour. He would swirl it to get in some oxygen, give it a sniff, and a snip. Then he would nod to the server, looking very professional, and we would proceed to drink the rest of the bottle like the gentlemen we are. If you are curious about what extreme we wound up taking this too, here it is: on Saturday night in Rome, under the waxing crescent moon, Zizi and I had a wonderful meal, and two bottles, at a lovely cafe in the square in front of the Pantheon. After dessert we strolled across the river to the Testavere. It was hopping. We played fuse ball at Delirium. After that we went to the locals’ spot, the San Calisto, for cheap pints. Outside on the street we met a couple of Ikea truck drivers from Tunisia. One of them was a palm reader. They spoke Italian and French. We had Spanish and English. It was more than enough to talk for a few hours. After much careful thought, I am leaving out the results of the palm reading. Things could have been lost in translation. What I think I remember is unreliable unto myself and therefore irresponsible to share. Be fucking crazy if what I do recall comes true though.

The Vatican is a powerful place and its power overtook me and it was there that I believe I did the most thorough job of proving to my son the extent of my eccentricity. Get ready for a summary of ‘House of Leaves.’ It’s coming up. For now, let it suffice to say that ‘House of Leaves’ is not the kind of book that makes it to the Vatican all that often. If there is a book that qualifies as being the polar opposite of the Bible, it might be House. I got a personal kick out of the fact that I toted a copy of it into St. Peter’s Basilica. If that isn’t enough, I dipped my fingers in the holy water and painted the cover with it. The kid’s eyes were rolling. Underneath the Sistine Chapel Ceiling I yanked the book out of my satchel and snapped a highly illegal iPhone picture of ‘House of Leaves’ in the foreground with God giving birth to Adam in the background. A picture of what I consider to be two of the most ambitious art projects ever undertaken; together. The original ceiling that Michelangelo did was completed in four years with a lot of help. House took much longer, and Danielewski didn’t have the Bible as a wellspring of inspiration, he had to go to a place that is harder to find.
Here is where things start getting pretty crazy. In order to understand, I need to get a little backstory across. The people who are close to me know that I have been plotting an exit from mobile phone culture. It’s not an easy thing to do. Believe me. I think about it a lot. So much in fact, that something had to be done. In Italy I was determined not to use my phone. No Übers. No Google translate. Etcetera. I almost left my phone in the car at the airport but didn’t. Oh well. That picture I took of House under the chapel ceiling, that was literally the first and only time I ever turned the phone on during the trip. My son was insta-jabbering all day with his mates. I was in Italy, and really digging into it. That was Thanksgiving day when we were at the Vatican. It was mellow [note to unsure Americans: Thanksgiving has nothing to do with the church, or Europe, they call it Thursday]. By dusk we had had pizza and were back at our apartment: a high-ceilinged, two-room suite with a rooftop deck. The doors were these three-meter tall wooden relics with brass locks that turned six deadbolts at once. Fucking Rome! I went to yoga on Vittorio Emmanuel, at a studio called Zem. I haven’t looked it up but my educated guess is that it’s Italian for Zen. The class was so cool. It was taught in English by an American from my hometown: Seattle. Although the crowd was totally international and I was likely the only other American there. 90 minutes of hot vinyasa and it was non-stop. In my row we were sweating so hard that my Turkish neighbor, Ali, actually asked the teacher for a life preserver. It was so fucking funny. Ali had recently wrapped up grad school. Before entering [presumably] the Turkish work force, he was sowing his oats in Rome. He told me he was in the midst of the best portion of his life. Done with grad school. No job. Just doing yoga and hanging out. I admired that he was so present in a nice moment of his life. I hope he knows it doesn’t have to be all downhill after. I would have a hard time soldiering on if I didn’t feel like there was at least hope that my finest moments were still in front of me. After that class I had a long dinner with the kid and then I left him back at the apartment. I went out to meet Ali at San Calisto. It was a fun night. I’m not going to try and relate it. Trust me. I wound up back at the apartment at 2:30 with Modo, a friend I made from Senegal. I’ll be honest, he probably lives on the streets. Modo is also a polyglot and an empath and a very cool guy. We smoked one of those vile things that Europeans roll that are mostly tobacco with a scant amount of hash tossed in. I have never liked one of these. Nor have I ever turned down a hit of one. Someday I hope to have a better understanding of myself. Apparently I am willing to sacrifice the body to continue energy cycling with people [hopefully my mom will buy that]. At breakfast I realized that my phone was gone and it stressed me out. An hour later I was admonishing myself for caring. The following morning I found myself [on a Sunday, mind you] atop the monument to Vittorio Emmanuel with all of Rome laid out before me. There were about a dozen other people up there. It was early. All of the other people had phones out. No nice cameras. All phones. I felt so blessed that I had nothing on me to capture that beautiful moment with but my memory. It was quiet. There was a layer of clouds that were broken in places and the sunlight was spiking through and illuminating some truly glorious creations. I was overcome. And when it comes to the phone, I convinced myself that God picked my pocket. Hard to blame the guy. I’m hardly loyal, and I did snake a shot of House underneath one of His most prized possessions. Every other thing on the phone was backed up in the cloud, with the exception of the picture that I shot in the chapel. In some ways God bested me. I lost the only cheesy traveler picture I set out to get. Only my fingers were in it. But I still think I won overall. I doubt He realizes I was looking for another reason to get rid of that phone anyway and He gave it to me. My plan has the Christian God’s support. Can’t hurt. Changes have already been made. I’m not all the way to total mobile phone surrender but I took a big step.




The restructuring of my approach to mobile phone usage is going to save me a thwack of money. More than $2k/yr. I assume the prices of operating those things will go up. Over the next two decades what will the savings be? Honestly, they could equal a Tesla. I didn’t buy a Tesla to celebrate. I did however get into some denim and leather. It was the right thing to do and I’ll explain why. The physicist and endearing spokesman for intergalactic truth, Neil de Grasse Tyson, embraces randomness with respect to his consumptive habits. In English: he is put off by targeted advertising. He wants to make his choices as a consumer based upon the random opportunities the universe presents him as he lives his life [this paraphrased opinion was gleaned from one of his appearances on Joe Rogan’s podcast]. I concur. I have sworn off internet shopping. In fact, I have sworn off all shopping when it doesn’t relate to absolute necessity [and food]. I don’t have enough shit to last the rest of my life but I am good for a while. When it comes to things like clothing, shoes, eyeglasses, accessories, toys, gifts, books, art, etc. I strictly impulse buy. I’m never looking and I’m always seeing. There is a specific reason why I adore this philosophy of acquisition: everything comes with a story. I find that everything that I own seems so much richer to me, and I take so much better care of it, when the moment we came together was serendipitous. ‘Check out this object I found on the internet, added to cart, and had shipped to the door,’ is an eerily ubiquitous and ultimately dull thing to hear. I like denim and I like leather. It’s true. My quiver of jeans is already pretty solid and Italy is well-represented [Diesel and Armani], although not my current favorites. I had been digging this Japanese Company called Iron Heart, and this Chinese Company called Red Cloud [burly selvedge fabrics, but hemorrhoid hostile]. Adjacent to the Pantheon I lucked into a store called Replay. This clothing store is modest-sized but so well-curated it might be worth a trip around the world specifically to shop at [I realize this contradicts my previous position, the store is that good]. Not every garment was cut for my exact shape, but the ones that were felt like pieces that I had been looking for all my life. I picked up two simple shirts [the kind I will get endless use out of], two pairs of jeans [those new school stretchy jeans, one blue and one black, I know they look tight but they feel like sweats and I now understand why the kid always wears these, he literally does do backflips in them, I won’t, but I could do yoga in them, and I’m coming around to the look], and one black leather belt that is woven and has a hundred or so small metal studs in it. It’s a badass belt and I will be using it to hold up my pants for the rest of my life. I am a little on the thin side and belts are always too big for me. I could tell this one was perfect for me the second I wrapped it around. It was 150 Euros [remember I’ve got the windfall from the phone bill I skirted coming my way].

Superlatives are some of the weakest words in the language; I try to avoid them at all costs. And then sometimes I find myself trying to describe ‘House of Leaves’ to someone and my tongue wants to default to them and I need to wrestle with it to makes it not. Instead of assigning Mark Z. Danielewski’s first major publication a reductive euphemism, I’m going to do something that is gutsier than you realize: I am going to try and explain it. If you are going to read House you need to get the fuck over yourself, and you need to get the fuck over the format right away. There are footnotes. It’s not a big deal. When one of the numbers comes up in the body of the text, look for the same number [or symbol] at the bottom of the page and follow the thread. When you have finished, go back to the body of the text and keep going. Don’t be lazy. Read the appendices as well when prompted. Two voices dominate the text. The writing in the body of the book was discovered by the voice that exists primarily in the footnotes. Johnny Truant is an apprentice at a tattoo shop in Los Angeles. His squalid existence is already dark, when his friend Lude takes him into the apartment of the deceased Carlos Zampano. The dead man was a blind recluse that had been working on a book|essay| dissertation???, it’s hard to say, about a documentary film that does not seem to exist. I’m still holding out some hope. The film is called ‘The Navidson Record,’ and it was compiled by Pulitzer Prize winning photo-journalist Will Navidson. One of the things that makes House such an intense read is that the lines between what is real and what is not become harder and harder and eventually impossible to spot, as the they are swallowed by the darkness. Allow me to give an example: Will Navidson [a fictional character as far as I can tell based upon my research] earned his pulitzer for a photograph of a Sudanese infant, starving and abandoned, and being stalked at close range by a massive black vulture. I saw this photograph after the first time I read House in an issue of Adbusters magazine. The next significant footage that is alluded to in the book is a short film called ‘The Five Minute Hallway.’ In this short film Navidson opens a door in the house and shows how it opens into a hallway that extends into the darkness. He then takes the camera out the door onto the porch and around to the outside, never taking the lens off the walls, and shows how there is nothing on the other side of the doorway but plywood, siding and paint. It turns out that is only the very beginning of the idiosyncrasies of the suburban Virginia house that Will, and his wife Karen, and their kids Chad and Daisy, were hoping to be the launch pad of a more serene existence. After a short family trip to Seattle the house has acquired a room that didn’t exist before they left. From there things get exponentially harder to grasp, as the house presents an infinite shifting void that Will Navidson becomes obsessed with documenting. The question of how to capture the image of darkness is well-addressed. As are the physics of echoes, requirements of ventilation systems in large internal spaces, dynamics of sibling and romantic relationships, etc. Like the dark void, the book goes off in seemingly endless directions. The old man’s commentary about the film reads more like a dissertation than anything else. It is riddled with footnotes of its own, all referencing commentary about the film or about topics referenced in the film. Some of these citations are from literary journals and other obscure publications from the 80’s and 90’s that are legitimate and many of them are a complete farce. Following every lead in this book to its end could be a lifelong endeavor. Perhaps the first sentence in House is worth paying attention to: ‘This is not
for you.’ I didn’t heed it. I’ve been obsessed with this book since it was given to me by a sneaky professor at The Evergreen State College in 2009. I’ll never get over it. I actually can’t relax unless there is a copy of it around. It doesn’t take long for the book to wrap its claws around its readers. It doesn’t take any effort to get invested in Johnny, Carlos, the Navidsons, or the house [and what dwells inside of it]. In the middle of the book there are pages with very few words and sometimes the words spiral, etc. It leads the reader through and it also creates the same unease that the house does, that space is shifting. If you haven’t read it I think you should. If nothing else it will extend your neurological capacity. If you are lucky, it might reframe the entire universe to the extent that your potential explodes in every direction; one day you will be able to blow a hole through the sky and leave through it. That carrot has to be worth taking a chance on.

A lot of tourists in Rome have a pretty lengthy list of things that they can’t miss seeing. There may be some irony here. Trying to see too much too quickly may have the unintended effect of not getting to see anything. Other than the Vatican, the only thing my son and I endeavored to really see, was a bunch of graffiti art in the suburb of San Lorenzo. This priority got us way out of the Rome that always has a lot of eyeballs on it. It was a special day. We took a lot of cool pictures. I am not going to pretend to have access to the technical vocabulary required to properly describe, much less critique, what is happening in the world of Italian street art these days. I can say that is an inspiring and energetic scene. Incidentally, I don’t have the vocabulary to comment on the art in the Vatican Museum either. I am bowled over by the scope of it, as well as the obvious passion imbued in a lot of it. In both places, San Lorenzo and the Vatican, we discovered pieces that were brilliantly conceived and executed by extremely talented artists. I’m honored to have visited both sites. 





I have already mentioned the Pantheon, but it is worth mentioning again. I discovered it by accident, looking for somewhere to nab a bottle of water. Because in Rome these breathtaking features are located on narrow cobblestone streets. There are no parking lots near and no one is hawking miniature replicas at the entrance. It is legitimately quaint everywhere around it. We liked to eat on the street, at a table in front of a restaurant that faced the entrance. As we ate and drank we could just contemplate the building. Intuition with respect to gravity is what creates the almost cosmic sensation. I know the math works out. But Goddamn does that ceiling look heavy. It was rebuilt twice in its first two-hundred years of existence and it has held steady for almost the last two- thousand. I was near the front during a religious service on a Sunday morning. I wasn’t allowed in but leaned over the velvet rope to get my ear as close to that music as I could. I am not going to assign adjectives to what I heard. Hopefully you have a chance to hear [feel] music like that sometimes in your life. I can still feel [hear] it.

By the end of the trip I was feeling like I had succeeded in getting a real sensation of the place and the people. I was not happy or unhappy about leaving. I like it where I live and I like my life. I also could have stayed there and ignored my life. Didn’t much matter. Our commuter train [poor choice and was taking forever], broke down in a small town within striking distance of Napoli and we had to take a cab the rest of the way in. Taking cars in Europe is brutally expensive because gas costs what it should. Trains and buses are the way to move about. In this case we had no choice. It was a Sunday night and we were hungry. More of that Napoli pizza that is paper thin, with a puffy crust, that is eaten with a fork, and a napkin that is tucked into the shirt collar. It is divine. More wine. The kid prefers white to red and with a blindfold on he can tell the difference. Not too shabby! His mom wasn’t too happy with me when we got back [because of the wine thing]. I’m not surprised. It takes the right kind of eyes to see certain types of wisdom. Some good ideas are counterintuitive and hard for people to swallow. I’ll get behind an unconventional philosophy if it is well-reasoned out and achieves some sort of benevolent objective. I wouldn’t do it willy-nilly.

Before this trip I was under the impression [privately, I never shared this impression with anyone] that I was going to make leaving the country a non-priority. I know a lot of people say they love to travel and I think that is so cool. I have done a lot of traveling and I am more in the mode of staying home at this point and working on some things that require a lot of dedication and concentration over time. Trouble is, there is something I would like to have done in Italy that I didn’t get to do: go to the opera. It wasn’t exactly the season and I don’t think I was situated near an opera house that would have been accessible to me. And my teenager has been very clear about having NO interest in attending the opera with me. I feel like this will ultimately be his loss. I don’t have any experience with opera but I did for a short while have a close friend that was an opera buff and he managed to convince me that there is something there for me. Maybe a return trip to hike in the northern Alps in the late summer, followed by a train ride to Tuscany, a shopping spree, and one spare-no-expense night of fine food and music? Pretty bulletproof idea.






December 29, 2019

Text: Douglas Brannon www.douglasbrannonauthor.com Photos: Zizi Smith
*The B-52’s
Share:

American Robin


“You know, Turdus migratorious, the American Robin, is one of the most common land birds in North America.”
Robin wasn’t fond of the tour guide, Benji. The way he was slinging the Latin around was making him insecure and he reacted internally by labeling the guy an asshole. Which he clearly wasn’t.
“Are you calling me common?” said Robin.
“Not at all, I am just telling you a bit about the bird that shares your name,” replied a defenseless Benji.
“I wasn’t named after a bird. I was named after my uncle.”  
Benji was as unthreatening as a man could be. He stood not more than five and a half feet tall with a crop of wildly curly blond hair that was trying to escape the Cleveland Browns baseball cap he was wearing to shield his soft gray eyes from the glare. He wore a khaki vest that was made entirely of pockets, which overflowed with identification books, water bottles and writing instruments. Around his neck hung a set of high-powered Pentax binoculars as well as a more modest and maneuverable pair with lower magnification. He spoke in patient tones and treated the kids in the group with the same respect as the accomplished ornithologists.  
  A flock of Pine Siskins landed on the top of a building across the parking lot from where the tour was embarking. Benji explained that the species was prevalent that year due to a bumper crop of cones in the lowland conifer forests of western Washington. “Many of those birds,” he told the group, “are just babies, following their families south for the first time. It’s easy to tell the young ones because their underbellies are still a deep brown.” 
The birds didn’t look like much to Robin, who wasn’t able to appreciate the birds in detail because he didn’t have any binoculars to view them with. To him they just looked liked some plain old boring brown birds sitting in a row. He was stunned at how genuinely interested in them the group seemed. Archie Pettibon, one of the avid birders on the tour, described the siskins in great detail to his brother Stan who was recording the sighting in his waterproof log book.
“How sweet,” said Sis. Sis was Robin’s new wife. The two of them settled on a nice long road trip up the west coast for their honeymoon, and the birding tour was just something that they happened upon while they were passing a few days in the decaying beach town of Ocean Shores, Wa. Going on the tour was Sis’s idea, and Robin was accompanying her under protest. His preference would have been to hang back in their hotel room at the Gray Gull and watch the Arizona Diamondbacks play the Seattle Mariners in an absolutely meaningless late summer baseball game.
“They’re gonna shit on all the cars,” said Robin. After that comment Jane Silver removed her eyes from the cups on her binoculars and craned her neck around to give Robin a nasty glare. When she introduced herself earlier in the hotel lobby Robin found out she was a professor of biology at San Diego State and a marathon runner. She also mentioned that she had birded on all seven continents, and was a devout member of the Church of the Adventists of the Seventh Day. She clearly didn’t appreciate Robin’s sarcasm or his profanity.
Robin wasn’t quite drunk but he was feeling pretty good from the two whiskey sours he had downed with his lunch. He kept his hands in the pockets of his blue jeans and flipped the black cowlick away from his face while smirking right back at the cranky college professor.
Benji saw that everyone was getting their fill of the siskins and suggested that they all start loading up into vehicles so they could get out to the tour’s destination, which was described to Robin as nothing but a mudflat in the middle of an expanse of beach sand that didn’t even connect to the ocean. Robin loathed the fact that he was being drug out there for the afternoon despite not really having anything better to do. He considered that he might be like the American Robin because he had literally no interest in birds, which he considered to be a common characteristic amongst people. His interest was in a six pack of beer and having sex with Sis after dinner. He was getting even more miffed that Sis was cozying up to the tour leader, asking him all sorts of dumb questions that she was never going to remember the answers to like how far can they fly before they need to take a nap? She looked good though, thought Robin. He loved it when she wore her hair braided and tucked her tight Jordache jeans into the scallops of her goat-hide ropers.
Robin and Sis loaded up in the back seat of the cobalt blue Ford Focus that was rented by the big German dude named Dolf. Robin didn’t like him much either. He was way too European for Robin’s taste. He spoke English with a weighty accent that had a way of demeaning the language. Robin thought the combination of the man’s great height, thigh-high black leather boots and page boy haircut was some sort of a joke. Plus he could already tell that Dolf was one of those guys who knew everything about everything. He had already overheard the guy trumpeting his accomplishments as an athlete and a chemical engineer to the retired couple from California, the Makungans. Sally and Fred just stood there egging him on about the non-corrosive salt that he developed for melting ice off of pavement. Like that was a big deal. Robin doubted the foreign intruder could switch out a toilet in even half the time it took Robin, who was a third generation plumber.
“How long is this drive going to be?” Robin grumbled.
“Ten minutes as the crow flies, half an hour or so by car,” Robin was annoyed that his question set Benji up for one of his too cute comments about birds which wound up getting a big laugh out of his wife. Deep down Robin knew it wasn’t really the bird tour that was getting under his skin, it was that Sis told him in bed that morning that she wanted to quit taking her birth control. 
The other cars fell in line to caravan to the mudflat. Just behind Dolf’s rental was a full size Chevy pick up that belonged to the Oregon carpenter, Joe Zipperer. Joe struck Robin as out of place on the tour. He wore his work clothes even though it was a Saturday and he kept nervously putting on his hat and then taking it off. He had no woman with him but he had two little kids. The younger of the two was a boy they called Bean who made freaky intense eye contact and didn’t appear to speak at all. He followed his big sister Alice everywhere she went. Alice was a vehement little kid whose voice boomed loud and clear out of her plump eight-year-old body. She kept Bean under her wing, and had a prodigious penchant for birds. 
Archie and Stan, the two brothers from Baltimore, who had the exact same voices and gestures despite looking sort of mismatched, swung their rented white minivan into the file. 
Jane Silver had offered a ride to the Makungans so they could leave their Monaco RV parked at the hotel and the three of them were wildly engaged in a discussion of the extinct California Condor and some of the rare species that Jane had seen on a recent trip to the Aleutian Chain.
The last car to account for was a rusty Chevette that belonged to a local woman named Dotty Campbell. Dotty was a lifer in Ocean Shores. During introductions she told the group that her father was a fisherman, and Dotty had been cleaning and packing fish since she was as young as she could remember. For the past fifteen years she had worked the night shift at a little motel in the middle of town called the Salty. Dotty was in rough shape. She had the look of a life long cigarette smoker who had never once even seen a fresh vegetable. Dotty wasn’t actually operating her own car, which may have had something to do with a bandage she wore over her right eye. Behind the wheel was her son Herbie, who didn’t look qualified to drive. And it wasn’t just that Herbie looked young, the bubblegum chewer had a distracted nature that could be disastrous behind the wheel of a car. The windows of the Chevette were down and Dotty could be heard telling Herbie where the turn signals were, and reminding him which pedal was the brake. When he arced the little car out of its parking spot he went way to fast and stopped just short of plowing into the bumper of Dolf’s car. Everyone inside the vehicle had an endorphin surge and Dolf immediately leapt from the vehicle and lashed out at the new driver.
“Arschgeige! You will pay if you damage this car.” In his opaque driving glasses the foreigner was intimidating as hell and the kid cowered from the sight of him. 
“Dolf, please, he didn’t mean any harm.” Benji was a good mediator. He jumped out of the passenger seat and managed to diffuse the situation by asking Herbie to keep a generous following distance since he was apparently just learning. 
It was a tense start to the tour and Robin caught himself chuckling at the angst.
Once they got driving Sis asked Benji if any of the birds were mating just then and Robin stared out the window and zoned out during Benji’s longwinded response. He sensed Sis was trying to push his buttons about the whole mating business. Robin had told her that there was no way she should be going off birth control for several years. He was pretty sure he was clear about that before the wedding. That he wasn’t ready to be tied down with kids. That he had too much living left to do. Which was a crock of shit really because he didn’t like doing much besides drinking with his buddies at the Poggy after work. Robin decided not to worry much about it. He owned Stat Plumbing and a little house on Riviera St. by the casino. Sis was lucky to have landed him.
A message came to Robin’s phone from his aunt Phyllis. She was in her nineties and still living alone. Robin looked after her when they were back home in Nevada. It sounded like the cable TV was on the fritz. He sent a message back promising her that he would look into it.
Half an hour later the train of cars arrived at a dusty parking lot carved out of the dunes with plenty of room for all of the vehicles, plus an outhouse that said Honeybucket. Herbie carefully nosed into a wide spot just opposite from it. After he shut the Chevette down, Herbie ran across the lot to the bucket, he must have needed desperately to pee. Robin used it to take a leak just after him. It was near full and gross. Guys could stand up and piss into the wall mounted urinal but the girls had no choice but to lower their pants all the way to the muddy plastic floor of the unit where there were wads of wet toilet paper on the floor. Some of the wads were brown. Then they would have to dangle the pink curtains over a mound that was pretty grim and growing. Robin could see about ten different piles of peoples’ stool. The disinfecting solution of the tank sat just below the rim of the toilet bowl. If it didn’t get emptied soon it would overflow. He breathed through his mouth and made his contribution to the tank. As the urine flowed out of him he studied the sticker on the inside wall of the Joe that detailed the service record. Maintenance had not been performed on the unit for near a month. The last entry was dated July, 24th, someone named Pancho had signed his name. On the inside of the door written in permanent marker was a local phone number accompanied by the words, affordable blow jobs. Robin’s last thought before leaving the Honeybucket was that one of those would be awful nice to get.
Suddenly everyone on the tour appeared to Robin as a blend of anxious and unorganized. They were all in a hurry but had so much to do. The Makungans were smearing spit on their eyeglasses so they wouldn’t fog. Jane was opening and closing all sorts of buttons and zippers as she removed her precious optical equipment from its protective cases. The Pettibon brothers were loaded for bear. The two of them sported matching vests and sun hats with the Eastern Mountain Sports insignia, and slathered themselves with high SPF sunblock even though the sun wasn’t that strong. Both Dotty and Herbie were prepared with low-end but serviceable binoculars. Even Joe’s kids were equipped with Eddie Bauer brand binocs called the Raptor Edition, made specifically for youngsters. Dolf extracted a tripod from the trunk and a spotting scope with eighty times magnification potential. The extremely expensive set up came from the German manufacturer Swarovski, and Dolf slung it over the sturdy shelf of his shoulder once he had it assembled. Only Robin and Sis showed up with nothing but their naked eyes.
The weather was perfect. A moderate system of high pressure was keeping the coast reliably dry and clear. It was sunny with a few scattered clouds, hot but not oppressive. It was great light for observing and photographing birds. Benji kicked off the tour with a spotting of a Savannah Sparrow flitting about in a thicket and everyone dropped what they were doing and trained their lenses on the bush. Robin and Sis could not see the bird, which quickly flew off, or so the group said. 
Before leaving the lot the Makungans had to use the Honeybucket also and young Alice kept everyone entertained with a story about her friend Allison’s pet parakeet pooping in the palm of her hand when she was holding it. 
“Let’s get going already, the tide is nearly up,” Dolf was looking impatient and frankly didn’t seem to like having to listen to the little kid. Robin wondered if they had kids over in Germany. He was sure they must be he couldn’t picture any. 
“It looks like we are all together now,” Benji whispered once the Makungans had finished their business. He didn’t speak too loudly because he didn’t want to scare off any birds. “I am going to lead us down the trail. Be careful climbing over the driftwood. Keep an eye out for wrens and sparrows, sometimes you see a Western Scrub Jay around here.” The birders were constantly scanning this way and that as they walked, looking for the slightest unnatural movement in the branches, or a flash of color that would alert them to the presence of bird. 
The sightings started coming pretty quick. They were making their way through a wind-stunted spruce grove, the understory was comprised of Black Twinberry, California Wax Myrtle and Salal. Benji was knowledgeable about not only about the birds but the landscape as well. There was an endless supply of ripe fruit and an endless coming and going of birds consuming it. The little ecosystem struck Robin as completely non-competitive, there was just so much food to go around. He wasn’t used to nature looking like a smorgasbord and he found that he was at least slightly impressed.
“Overhead!” came a shout from Jane Silver. She had her binocs steadied and she was looking up at a thirty five degree angle, tracking a bird with a huge wingspan, white, with grey undersides, it was flying due west out to sea. Robin and Sis didn’t need binoculars to observe it, the bird was huge.
“That’s an Osprey,” shouted the little girl Alice, “did you know that Osprey live on all seven continents? My friend Allison told me that.”
“Halt deine fresse. That’s bullshit,” said Dolf.
“Hey, take it easy with the language please, sir. These are kids,” Alice’s dad stuck up to the German. “She may not be exactly right about everything, but she likes birds, give her a break.”
“I am sorry if I offended you,” Dolf was insincere, “but Osprey do not live on all seven continents. The fraülein is distributing false information.”
“Osprey are the world’s most naturally widespread bird, she isn’t far from being right.” Benji, who was completely non-confrontational and an exceptional mediator, offered a statistic to pacify the situation. The quiet kid, Beanie, in an attempt to avenge his big sister, snuck up on Dolf quietly and stomped on his toes, which didn’t have much effect because of Dolf’s knee-high leather boots but it pissed him off.
“Hey, control your children!”
“Sorry,” said Joe, who clearly didn’t have much control over his kids, “alright, Bean, come here.” The silent five-year-old planted himself squarely between his sister and Dolf. He was calm and staring. Then Robin saw a few long-necked birds in a tree and decided to bring it up.
“Hey, what are those?” He pointed to a group of low branches in one of the spruces about forty yards off.
“Good spot,” replied Benji. “It looks like we have got a group of Green Herons roosting in the spruces. That’s very unusual, they don’t often stay in groups like that. And what’s this?” he trained his binocs on two bird of prey traveling south, fast, toward the same mudflat that Benji was leading the group to, “Peregrine Falcons.” Everyone was frozen and had binocs to their eyes with the exception of Robin and Sis who squinted to see the birds at all. Even Beanie with his plastic set of binocs was tracking the pair of silver predators as they plunged earthward and out of sight.
“Those birds just killed something. I know it,” said Alice.
“Yeah, that’s how the world works, kid,” said Fred Makungan with his binocs pointed at another part of the sky. “I got something else coming in, I think it’s a Harrier, there are a lot of prey birds around, which means lots of prey. We’ve got to get out to this flat, it’s looking pretty birdy from here.” The group was seized with urgency. There could be birds out at the flat that were going to fly off soon. 
Benji had already set the scene for the afternoon back at the hotel. Most of the birds they were going to see were migrating shorebirds who fed in shallow mudflats. Mudflats are all over when the tide is out, but when it is in there are fewer places to eat so the flocks condense around inland brackish pools. By August many of these pools are gone but the one the tour was heading to that afternoon was still wet and chances were high of there being a big diversity of species around. At least for several hours. They needed to hustle, but the group had some low common denominators when it came to moving over the piles of bleached driftwood and uneven ground. Fred and Sally weren’t that mobile to begin with and they kept geeking out on the birds instead of watching where they were going. At one point Fred actually fell off of a slippery log and landed hard on his hip. He said he was alright but he started limping pretty heavy after.
Collected at the forest’s edge, they were looking at a big sandy flat. There was clearly water out there in the middle because it was reflecting a perfect image of the sky, but the birds were walking around in it and it seemed to be no more than several inches deep, though it covered at least three acres. Robin shook his head and directed a disappointed comment at Sis.
“This is what we came to see?” she shot him a scathing glare and went to stand near Benji who was orienting everyone to the spot.
“Okay, here we are everybody. Let’s have some fun. Sometimes we see hundreds of birds out here, already we can see terns-”
“There’s a scaup!”
“Greater or Lesser?”
“Greater I think, I’m going to put it in the scope.” 
Jane Silver also had one of the tripod scopes along with her. The single lens units were far more powerful than binoculars but hard to hold still enough to look through because of their sensitivity, so they needed to be mounted and set. But once a bird was found and focused in the eyepiece a person could get a real detailed look. Jane set up her scope nice and low so Alice and Beanie could see the scaup. Dolf asked Robin if he would like to view the bird through his scope and Robin thanked him cautiously and said sure. He closed his right eye so no light would interfere with his view and placed his left eye firmly in the cup and allowed his vision to steady. The image was in focus, but there was no bird, only reeds, he wasn’t sure if Dolf was fucking with him or not.
“Did you see it?” asked Dolf, when Robin pulled his head away.
“Yeah, I saw it,” he said. 
The group picked up and started moving closer to the water. Benji’s plan was to walk them up to the northwest edge of the flat, so that the light would be behind the group, which was optimum for viewing and identifying. The Peregrine Falcons were flying low along the dunes again, tracing big arcs and scaring all the little creatures below. The pair of birds was in an obvious attack formation. One of them pulled its wings back and hovered a few feet above the ground for a moment, then dropped and sunk its claws into a plover. The falcon carried its kill to a driftwood stump beached in the center of the pool where it tore the head off its lunch and sunk its hooked black beak into the plover’s breast in front of the birders and all of the other birds. The group was spellbound, they all liked watching the kill. 
There was a gang of Brown Pelicans perched on a fallen tree, probably on their way to Santa Monica. Jane Silver loaned Sis a set of binoculars that she wasn’t using and she looked like she was having a great time looking at all the birds. She asked Benji about different types of seagulls and Robin eavesdropped on his overly intimate response. He confessed to the Washington native Glaucous-winged Gull being his favorite gull and he pointed out to her Mew Gulls, Ring-billed Gulls, California Gulls, and the Caspian Tern, which he told her as though it were a secret, is also technically a gull. Robin was getting fed up with the underhanded tour guide who he felt was trying to impress his wife with by showing off his disturbing obsession with birds, all of which looked to him like regular old white seagulls.
“Ducks!” shouted Alice, and sure enough, overhead, was a V formation of ducks traveling south along the coast. The flock followed their leader who descended slowly, banked northeast and brought the crew down for some food and a break on their journey to wherever they were going.
“Those are Northern Pintail Ducks,” said Benji, very excited, “they breed in Alaska!”
“My friend Allison has a pet Pintail Duck!” another strange came comment from the enthusiastic Alice.
“She does not. Kid, do you even have a friend named Allison? Or any friends at all?” Dolf made his rude remark out of the side of his mouth without taking his head away from his scope, which was trained on a bird that was rare to the region called a Hudsonian Godwit, although he wasn’t sharing the information with anyone.
“Hey mister, why don’t you just enjoy the birds and leave my kid alone?” said Joe, in a sorry display of mock-toughness. Dolf offered another of his insincere apologies and went back to studying the godwit. Like many of the birds at the flat, the godwit was medium-sized and rather non descript. But it was a worthy traveler and getting to see it was an intersection of fates.
The tour set up base camp along the southwest corner of the oval pond. The light was incredible, the sky was gorgeous, and the birds were more than any of them could have hoped for. Benji, who explained that he was familiar with conducting bird censuses from his research missions to the Galapogos, estimated ten thousand birds at the mudflat. Most of those numbers came from migrating plovers, sandpipers, and dowitchers. Those birds were eating marine worms mostly, and mini-crustaceans, but they had attracted birds that liked eating other birds, and the pelicans and the gulls and the herons and the ducks all seemed to be there, like the birders, in a spectator’s capacity. It was a condensed ecosystem of bird activity and the serious birders in the group were euphoric. Robin was being offered plenty of chances to view birds through the scopes of other members of the group and he felt like he was learning some things. Although he avoided the creepy Dolf, who kept mainly to himself unless the kid spoke up. 
Robin assumed that his group were the only nut cases out there looking at birds. But after a while he started noticing two other birders with scopes across the flat. They looked serious. 
Sis was using Benji’s good pair of binocs at this point and really soaking up the birding talk from Benji. When Robin tried to get her to step aside and talk to him briefly she said not now. The whiskey buzz was gone and Robin started getting bored. He was also pissed that his wife was giving all of her attention to another guy. Of course he knew it wasn’t just because of what happened in bed that morning. The honeymoon road trip had had its good moments but it had been trying overall. And it was his fault. They stopped off at her parent’s house in Sacramento and he got so drunk on red wine from Napa that he keeled over into their grandfather clock causing significant damage to the gears and losing one of his front top teeth in the process. He was planning on getting it fixed by his own dentist after they got home and was aware of how much less sexy he must appear with the tooth gone. That wasn’t the only mishap either. In Reno they got a nice room at the Hilton and had fabulous cuts of porterhouse for dinner. Afterward Sis wanted to hang out with him on the big round bed but Robin talked her into letting him hit the blackjack tables for half an hour while she took a bath. In the gaming room Robin had nothing but bad luck. Before he knew it he was down a grand and taking an advance on their credit card. Sis passed out in her red teddy waiting for him to come back. At five am she got dressed and went looking for him. She found him in the cocktail lounge lamenting his colossal losses over gin and tonics with a wasted showgirl in a sequined mini-skirt and a white feather boa.
Dotty and Herbie were smoking cigarettes and sitting down. The kid was listening to music on his headphones and his mother looked like she could use an oxygen tank. She looked content enough, she was just laboring to breathe. The weight of the binoculars seemed way too much for her. 
Archie and Stan were taking copious notes and high-fiving each other every time they found a new species. It was truly binge birding and it wasn’t an opportunity that came along often, even for Benji. 
Sally and Fred Makungan had stopped using scopes and binocs. It wasn’t even necessary with so many birds up so close. They were standing with their feet at the edge of the water just watching the rivers of birds swooping around and landing in ancient formations in front of them. Fred had his arm around Sally. Robin watched Sally drop her hand into Fred’s back pocket and squeeze his rump.  
Jane Silver had eased up on finding birds and was hanging out with the little silent kid and his sister. She was digging in the sand with Beanie and listening to Alice go on and on about nest parasites like the Brown-headed Cowbird. Jane must have already known that the mama Brown-headed Cowbird left her eggs in the nests of other birds, where her babies would hatch and be raised and fed by the parents other species like robins and warblers. 
“Did you know that the Brown-headed Cowbird has driven the Kitchin’s Warbler nearly to extinction?” said Alice, “my friend Allison told me that.” Jane pretended it was new information.
The two people that Robin had seen birding across the mudflat were on the move and headed toward the group. Benji broke away from his conversation with Sis to introduce himself. The pair turned out to be a father and son and all of the serious birders flocked as birders do to hear what they have seen and share in the glory of what was obviously a jackpot day of birding. Archie and Stan touted recording over forty-five species since leaving the parking lot. 
The son turned out to be a home-schooled birding prodigy; a lanky thirteen-year-old in a baggie blue hoody named Zanter Golding. Benji recognized the lad’s name immediately and filled the tour group in on all of his accomplishments. He was celebrated that year by the Washington State Ornithological Society for a census that he conducted personally from an ocean front location near his family’s home on Chuckanut Dr., south of Bellingham, Wa. The results of his study were used by conservation groups to protect the coast from development. He was awarded a fifteen thousand dollar scholarship for that year and put the money in a bank account with the scholarship money that he had won the previous year for a paper that was published in Junior National Geographic on the range of Bald Eagles, which he very clearly explained in his paper was longer than most people realized. In some cases they traveled from Canada, to locations as far south as the Sierra Madre Mountains in northern Mexico. 
The kid and his dad had to be carrying five grand in optical equipment. Not only that, they were hauling fold-out stools, a little red cooler, and what looked to be a mandolin case. They explained that they had been at the flat since eight a.m. The freckled kid looked exhausted and in need of some nourishment but the he was also hyper. Young Zanter was anxious about a bird called a Hudsonian Godwit, which he had thought he had spotted. He said it would have been a first time sighting for him and he and his dad were following it when they ran into the group. He asked if anyone had seen it, and no one said they did, even though Dolf was right there and had already had a good look at the bird. The group started peppering the anxious kid with questions. Instead of getting on with his mission, the polite kid stayed and talked with the tour for a bit. Robin seized upon the moment to pry Sis away from the group, and Benji, who was grinding on his sobering nerves. Sis reluctantly agreed to talk to him and they walked downwind to where they couldn’t be easily heard.
“What do you want?”
“Sis, look-”
“Don’t say my name.”
“What?”
“You heard me.”
“Sis, I’m sorry. I know-”
“I said don’t say my name like that.”
Robin was losing track of what he had meant to say. Sissy’s jade eyes were obscured behind the lenses of the cheap shades that she had picked up earlier at the gas station. He had to take a few breaths before talking and he struggled not to use her name when he spoke.
“I know I haven’t been the best since the honeymoon started, but don’t-”
“You know I talked to Maria today? She said I never should have married you,” Maria was Sissy’s best friend, they worked together at the salon. “Look at you, Robin. Would it have killed you to wear a clean t-shirt?” Robin had a mound of hash browns and ketchup slip off of his fork at breakfast and leave a gruesome stain on the front of the white shirt he was suddenly embarrassed not to have changed.
“So wait. It’s okay for you to use my name?”
“Oh, so now you want to start an argument? And in front of all of these nice people.”
“Is this all about the kid thing? I know I may have said after we were married would be a good time. But I meant a while after-”
“Both of my sisters have kids already, Robin. And Maria and Brad are starting to try-”
“So this is about Maria. You want to be pregnant with Maria.”
“It would be nice if I could have the experience along with my girlfriend, yeah. What’s so wrong with that?”
“Kids are serious work, Sis. And they cost a lot of money.”
“Stop saying my name, Robin. I don’t like it when you use my name like that.” Robin’s temper was starting to flare. His arms and legs shook when he got uncontrollably angry, as if trying desperately to hold back the torrent of frustration he was feeling.
“Look around you, Si-would you look at these kids that are here today. They’re all a wreck.”
“A wreck? Robin, what the hell is the matter with you? These kids are all adorable.”
“Adorable? The fat one won’t shut up, and her little brother just stares at everyone with those beady little eyes of his and doesn’t say a goddamn th-”
“And what about Zanter. Huh, Robin. That boy is a genius. I suppose you think he is a wreck too?”
“I bet you that kid is a social misfit. And he is awfully pretentious about this birding thing.”
There was a whoosh and a shadow crossed their faces. They both looked up to see a mature Bald Eagle flap its wings one time and then soar north across the sky above the mudflat. It had to be a female because it was enormous. There wasn’t any doubt about who was in charge. Even the peregrines roosted in frozen reverence until it disappeared.
“Screw you, Robin,” Sis turned her back on him and rejoined Benji and the others. 
The birding group was getting on the move. Everyone was now on a mission to find the Hudsonian Godwit, led by the promising Zanter, who the birds were putting through college. When Robin, who was seething with anger at that point, caught up with the them, Zanter was explaining that the Hudsonian Godwit has long legs like the other godwit species but is differentiated by its long, skinny, pink bill that has an upward curve to it, and that the other godwits have straight bills. The bird nested on the shores of Hudson Bay, Alaska, and traveled all the way to South America for the winter. It would be a very lucky sighting as they were never anything but passing through. Robin lingered at the back of the pack with Herbie who was chain smoking and definitely thinking about something other than birds. Maybe girls. More likely video games.
Zanter would walk a few paces with the group behind him, scanning with his binocs, then he would stop when he thought he saw something and swiftly set up his spotting scope. The group kept bunching up behind him, everyone wanting to be the one to find the godwit. Zanter’s dad was the one who really spotted it. It was on a sandbar in the middle of the pond with three Ruddy Turnstones. He nudged his son and told him where to look. Zanter was then able to announce the sighting and take credit for it. It turned into a big celebration and Robin was absolutely disgusted by it. Especially seeing as the bird looked like a fucking pigeon. They had found the Hudsonian Godwit. All the group’s scopes were trained on the bird. Benji had spotted a vagrant Hudsonian Godwit while birding in Australia in ’82, and Jane Silver had seen one of them in Chile. But up until then Dolf was the only memeber of the group who had seen one in the United States. Zanter was emotional and so was his dad. They didn’t cry, but they were on the verge. Robin sulked. Sis admired the bird with Benji’s binoculars. Dolf, once again, offered Robin a chance to look at the bird through his scope.
“I don’t want to look at the stupid fucking bird!” shouted Robin. The group was stunned and an eerie silence ensued. Benji was trying to think of something to say. Sis was shaking her head, looking at her husband as though he didn’t belong to her. It was Joe, the overburdened father, who spoke up first.
“Hey, mister. I would appreciate you not using profanity like that around my kids.”
“Don’t use profanity around your kids? Your fucking kids are annoying. That one won’t talk, and that one won’t shut up, and for some reason they are-my wife--hmmmh--when the fuck is this tour going to be over?” It was an awful, embarrassing and stilted speech and Robin was instantly sorry that he opened his mouth. Dolf smiled. He obviously liked watching Robin make an ass of himself.
Suddenly the silent kid stepped forward and erupted. 
“Mister, stick a dick in your ass! You eat donkey pussy! You’re a cock sucking butt monkey! You’re a shit smelling, fish licking, moldy piece of poop!” Then he started listing all the profanity he seemed to know. “Ass, tits, titties, dick, balls, nuts, plums, sex, hairy monster!” The last thing he said was, “Before the cancer, my mommy had huge tits!” Joe cupped a hand over the boy’s mouth. He picked him up and ran off toward the dunes to comfort him. His big sister Alice flipped Robin the bird and then ran to catch up with her dad and her brother. All of the jubilation from the godwit spotting and the incredible afternoon of birding vanished. Joe started yelling at everyone from the not far off dunes.
“What the hell is the matter with you people? I just wanted to take my kids out to see some birds, because my daughter likes birds. Why the hell are you people so mean?” his voice was shaky. It was very apparent to everyone suddenly that this family was going through hard times, and all of the birders, except Dolf, were suffering and ashamed of Robin’s outburst. Sis, Jane and Benji ran to them to be of some comfort. Benji was determined not to allow the crude behavior of Robin and of Dolf to reflect upon the tour’s sponsors at the Washington State Ornithological Society or the Seattle Audobon Society, or the calm and virtuous activity of admiring native and transient birds. 
The young Zanter was Zen after spotting his godwit and approached Robin with a maturity way beyond his years.
“Why don’t you go to your car, sir? So we can all enjoy the birds.” 
Robin hung his head. Sis was nowhere in sight and wanted nothing to do with him anyway. He commenced his walk of shame back to the parking lot alone to cool off. 
A giant flock of sandpipers escorted Robin along the trail back to the car. The tide was pushing out and while the area was still choked with birds, some of the species were scattering as other places to feed became available. Robin was feeling ashamed of his behavior and for the first time started really believing that Sis might leave him. They hadn’t known each other all that long. Maybe she would listen to that melodramatic Italian hairdresser friend of hers and leave him if he refused to start a family with her. He began to consider the possibility of children. That Zanter kid sure seemed to be having a nice time with his dad. Robin could see enjoying having a kid like that. He started to fantasize about a boy that he and Sis might have. One that he could teach how to be a plumber. He saw a kid that looked like him, only better built. They were swapping out a hot water heater together. Shortly after that, he imagined the two of them trenching in a sewer line. He would have to give up drinking every night at The Poggy to have a kid. And his dart team would probably take it pretty rough. But they could manage without him in time. 
Traveling alone back through the thicket Robin was excited that he found it familiar and still teeming with birds. He thought he may have been a little too hard on the birders. It wasn’t like watching football but it was a decent enough hobby. The whiskey felt finally like it was all the way out of him and his mood was getting better. A black and orange Western Tanager nibbled at the deep purple twinberry fruit to the left of the path. He decided to apologize to the group when they all got back. And later to Sis. Sincerely. They were married and he had been acting like a doofus the entire honeymoon and he knew it. He was going to say he was sorry and tell her that she should go off of birth control if she wanted to. He also figured it was a good way to insure that he would keep getting laid a lot. At least in the short term.   
Robin leaned against the hood of Dolf’s car, thankfully upwind from the awful smelling Honeybucket. Since he had some time to kill he rung up the cable company back home so he could get aunt Phyllis’s TV back up and running.
The group took forever getting back. By the time they actually showed up, Robin had dealt with the cable guy, thought up a heartfelt apology, rehearsed it, fallen asleep on a patch of gravel in the sun, and woken up bitter again. And parched.
Once the group was back in the lot the tension reappeared. Everyone was afraid to talk. The various groups avoided each other like boats in an ocean. Cars were quietly packed up. Beanie and Alice fell asleep as soon as Joe put them in their car seats in the truck. The exhausted dad half-ass waved at Benji and took off without another word. Fred, Sally and Jane were mostly packed up but they were in no hurry. They were leaning on the hood of Jane’s car, still with their binoculars around their necks, chewing Wheat Thins and casually scanning the skies. They invited Dotty over to share their snack. Archie and Stan bade farewell and drove off muttering something about burgers. Herbie really wanted his mom to hurry up. Fred spotted another Marsh Wren, which couldn’t have been less exciting, but everyone looked at it politely and oohed and aahed. 
Robin and Sis were stone silent in the backseat of Dolf’s car, waiting for their driver who had decided at the last second that he needed to relieve himself. 
Herbie finally had his mom in the passenger seat, buckled up and ready to go. The impatient kid threw the Chevette into reverse and hit the accelerator so hard that the little car went flying backwards into the Honeybucket. 
Dolf was inside pissing when the outhouse door caved in sharply. The unit tipped up from the force of the impact and teetered on its edge. The Honeybucket was obviously bottom heavy but Herbie rammed it so hard with the rear bumper that the displaced contents of the tank came up through the vent pipe like it was the blowhole of a whale. Something about the way Dolf must have been flailing away inside made it eventually go horizontal. On impact the holding tank released the entirety of its contents in a torrent through the lid of the toilet, dousing Dolf in two hundred gallons of shit mixed with tampons, toilet paper, and piss; all dyed blue to mask the unsightliness. The material was seeping rapidly out the Honeybucket’s seems and the stench was unbearable. 
From inside Dolf could be heard coming unglued.
“Schise! Schise! Blutige Sau!”
Herbie was outside of the Chevette trembling and clawing at his pimply cheeks. Dotty was the first to come to Dolf’s aid. She pulled at the door of the Honeybucket but it was stuck. Dolf switched to gurgling English.
“Open the fucking door! Open the fucking door!” 
Robin couldn’t hold back a laughing fit when he saw the soiled Dolf finally escape from the capsized outhouse and take off sprinting back down the path to the mudflat. Sis walked right up to him and spit in his face.
When an American Robin lit down on the tipped over outhouse Fred couldn’t help pointing it out.
Share:

Popular Posts

Recent Posts

Contact Form

Name

Email *

Message *